Wow, here I am. Today is my last day in Santiago. To say that I have mixed feelings is quite an understatement. I find myself just staring at the city around me from time to time in order to etch everything into my memory. On the one hand, I am so excited to go home to my friends, family, and favorite foods. I definitely miss all of my favorite people, and it will be amazing to see them again. Plus, I have a lot to look forward to in the upcoming semester including a new job in the STUDY ABROAD OFFICE! I actually screeched when I found out I was chosen to work there. I think it will be an amazing opportunity to share my experiences with others, and I can’t start soon enough. However, that being said, I am incredibly sad to fly from this city for the last time. Santiago has become my home, although it may drive me CRAZY at times. After a rough spring semester, I was hoping fall semester would be a chance to start over. I see Chile as one of the best things that ever happened to me. It truly was my reawakening after my sophomore slump. Chile was everything I expected and so many things I didn’t. I am coming home with the best friend I could ever ask for and a thousand memories that I will never forget. A giant thank you goes out to my parents on this one. Without them, none of this would have been possible, and I owe them for all of their support (both financially and otherwise). But enough of that. I am already tearing up, and I still need to recount my travels to you all.
I guess I should start with Pichilemu since that was the first in my series of three trips. Max and I spent a long weekend in Pichilemu, a surf town about four hours south of Santiago, leaving bright and early in the morning on Saturday the 26th. There isn’t too much to say about the trip except that it was very relaxing. Max and I spent all three days there lounging around on the beach, going on long walks, and watching some pretty amazing surfing. The most serious surfers were at Punta de Lobos. We got a pretty good view of them from up on a cliff, and let me tell you, these guys were the real deal. We definitely saw some impressive wave-riding and some even more impressive wipeouts. While in Pichilemu, Max and I also ate the best empanadas I have had in my entire time in Chile at a little empanada shop called “La Casa de Empanadas”. Every single empanada had cheese in it, and they were fresh and fried and delicious. Plus, a shout out to our hostel, which was the best one I have stayed at over the course of my five months and various adventures here. It was a hike out there, and we had to take a collectivo to get to and from it, but it is now the standard to which all hostels will be held. Not sure how anything could beat fresh fruit salad and WAFFLES for breakfast. Not to mention, the “guard dog” patrolling the premises was a regal English bulldog that became my obsession (Mom, can we pleeeeaaaasssseeeee get one?). Pichilemu was also the first place I jumped in the ocean during my time here. Sure I had put my toes in or even gotten up to my calves, but this time both Max and I dared to jump in all the way. Yeah, it was FREEZING, but it was also refreshing. All in all, it was a lovely mini-vacation to celebrate being done with classes.
What was up next for Max and I was our epic journey through the Torres del Paine National Park (aka the end of the world). On December 4, we awoke at 3:45 am to take a transfer to the airport for our 6 am flight. Needless to say, we were incredibly tired and wondering why we had decided to book such an early flight (well obviously it was the cheapest option but still). The first leg of the flight from Santiago to Puerto Montt was relatively painless, and I slept through most of it. The two hours from Puerto Montt to Punta Arenas were not nearly as pleasant, however, as a family of three settled into the row behind us. Let’s just say, I don’t appreciate having a two year-old kick my seat and scream in my ear for two hours while I am trying to sleep. But anyway, we made it to Punta Arenas around 10:30 and shared a cab with another backpacker into town. Our cab driver was quite chatty and gave us the rundown of what we were seeing on the way in. All three of us wanted to be dropped off at the bus station, which was good because Max and I had planned to take the first bus to Puerto Natales (the pick-up and drop-off point for buses heading to Torres del Paine). Unfortunately, the next bus did not depart until 1 pm, but it worked out okay because it gave us a chance to explore the town and eat lunch. The weather was a gorgeous 65 degrees, but it is strange to think that that is about the warmest it gets there. Although Punta Arenas is not quite the southernmost city in the world, at 53 degrees southern latitude, it is probably the farthest south I will ever go in my life, so that is kind of cool. We walked around the Plaza de Armas there and marveled and the weirdly shaped trees all over the place before heading back to the station. The bus ride to Puerto Natales was relatively uneventful, and if I remember correctly I slept through most of it (it was a very sleepy day).
Upon arrival to Puerto Natales, Max and I had many things to do. Although our packs were already packed with our clothing, toiletries, basic survival items etc., we still had yet to buy food and rent our tent, sleeping pads, and a sleeping bag for Max (my friend Tess was wonderful enough to let me borrow her super nice L.L. Bean bag). So after we checked into our hostel (another place I would recommend since it was quite nice), we set off to finish the last few things we had yet to do. Buying food was quite the experience. We made four separate trips between the two grocery stores in town trying to find everything we needed. While in the US, it would be super easy to pick up summer sausage, dried fruits, and other suitable camping foods, Chile is not nearly as well stocked. It was quite frustrating. However, we ended up with a box of cereal, jam, tortillas, a log of salami, a hunk of parmesan cheese, eight hard rolls, two chocolate bars, peanuts, raisins, powdered juice mixes, a couple of apples and Clementines, a jar of peanut butter, and 16 cliff bars (the last two items were courtesy of Margaret Thor). Though it sounds like a lot of food when I type it out, it really didn’t allow for much variation in our diets. As you can see, we also decided not to rent a stove, and I’m glad we didn’t because it just would have been another thing to carry on a four-day trek. We decided to rent all of our gear from a rental place within the hostel we would be staying at when we came back from our trek. It worked out really well, and I thought everything was pretty moderately priced.
That night we had planned to eat our last warm meal at a brewpub in town called Baguales that was highly recommended, but it was closed on Sundays! We were pretty disappointed, but instead we went to a pizza place called “La Mesa Grande”, and it was pretty tasty. We split an order of garlic bread, a garlic and spinach pizza, a lamb pasta dish (lamb is apparently a staple in the Patagonian diet), and a brownie sundae. Plus, we each got a beer because my favorite Chilean brew comes from Punta Arenas. We left full and happy, though I couldn’t stop freaking out about the journey ahead. I had never backpacked before in my life, and I was incredibly nervous that Max would leave me in the dust. Plus, I have been less-than-dedicated to running in Chile, so I was afraid of being out of shape AND unable to carry such a heavy pack. Max attempted to calm me down and assured me that I would be totally fine. As usual, he was right, and my worries were completely unfounded.
The next morning, we got up early AGAIN to catch a bus to the Torres del Paine! The bus was scheduled to pick us up at the front door of our hostel at 7:30, so we got up at around 6:30 to finish putting the last few things in our packs and to eat breakfast. Breakfast was good for Chilean standards and included eggs. I passed on the yogurt though. BLEH. In true Chilean fashion, the bus was late picking us up, but as we were waiting, we saw someone frantically waving out the window of a different bus at us. Turns out it was Chloe, a girl from our program though at first we thought it was just someone being rude and mocking us for waiting. But anyway, that was kind of awesome. We ended up meeting up with Zoe and Chloe when we arrived in the park a couple of hours later, and we found out that we were all starting in the same point, so we would be taking the ferry across the Pehoe Lake together. Another nice surprise was that foreigners with a national ID only had to pay 4000 pesos instead of 15000 as we expected. This meant that Max and I saved more than $20. But that was a good thing since the ferry across the lake cost us those 11000 pesos we had just saved. Upon arrival at the first campsite at around 1 pm, Max and I set up our tent because unlike the girls, we were trying to do the W-hike in four days instead of five. Check this website for a good map of the trek: http://www.fslodges.com/en/torres-del-paine-national-park-and-surroundings/torres-del-paine-interactive-map.html. We then ate lunch (peanut butter and jelly tortillas and water) and decided to leave our packs in the tent and bring just a daypack with us. We figured that no one would want to steal our clothing, and we brought all of our valuables (iPod, passports, cell phones, cameras) with us. Leaving our packs was the best idea EVER. It meant that unlike the people who decided to camp at Refugio Grey (see map), we didn’t have to carry 25 pounds of gear with us. That afternoon we planned to hike out to Refugio grey and back which was supposedly a 7 hour (12 mile) hike. Yeah, notsomuch. Although the trek was hilly (for some reason, I didn’t expect hiking to be so hilly), we blazed through about five miles in two hours at which point we decided to turn around. We were able to see some great views of the lake as well as some icebergs! The real highlight though, was the stunning view of the massive glacier grey, which we saw from a lookout point. We also ran into Chloe and Zoe there, and hiked with them for about 45 minutes. The park was a wonderful sight to behold, and I was very excited that it didn’t rain that day as was initially forecasted. After 10 miles of hiking, Max and I were exhausted when we returned to Refugio Paine Grande and our feet were very tired (though I didn’t have any blisters! Thanks Mom and Dad, the hiking boots were a success). We devoured some delicious salami sandwiches, chocolate, and fresh fruit before turning in for the night. Something to note: the sun doesn’t completely set in the Torres del Paine until almost midnight and then it rises at 5 am. It was super awesome, and I loved it. I did not love, however, baking in my tent at 7 am the next morning. That little space was like an oven with the sun beating down on it.
On day 2, we started with a shower! There are two types of campsites in Torres del Paine: campamentos and refugios. You have to pay for the refugios ($10 a night), but they have showers and a place to buy food. I preferred the refugios for obvious reasons, but I guess nothing beats sleeping for free. Anyway, after showering, we packed up all our gear and took down our tent to begin the first leg of the journey with our packs. Surprisingly, it wasn’t that bad! This part of the hike was much flatter than the one from the day before. We also managed to keep cool as it was drizzling. It was also SUPER windy, and at one point Max’s hat blew off of his head, and he had to run off of the path to chase it down. The coolest happening with the wind though was when we were crossing one of many creeks and a particularly strong gust PICKED ME OFF THE GROUND. Max grabbed onto my arm, which was fortunate or I would have definitely fallen down the stream. It was one of the strangest sensations of my life. On that hike, we also got some stunning views of the Cuernos (see pictures) as well as of the Valley around us. The wind also caused cyclones over the lake, which looked like mini-tornadoes. Really cool stuff. In total, the hike was supposed to take two and a half hours, but Max and I are speed demons and completed it in around two hours. Just in time to avoid hiking in the rain. We set up our tent before having lunch (more peanut butter and jelly tortillas) and were lucky to be sheltered from the wind and rain by plenty of trees. Before our afternoon hike, I wanted to use the bathrooms, so I meandered over to the nostoluxurious outhouses (this was a campamento, not a refugio after all). Yeah, the outhouses were locked. NOT HAPPY. So for the first time since when I was in Girl Scouts, I was forced to go to the bathroom outside. Thank goodness, Max and I had the foresight to bring toilet paper with us.
Anyway, we set out on our afternoon hike (without packs again!) from Campamento Italiano to Campamento Britanico where we were supposed to get some nice views of the French valley. However, when we started hiking it had begun to rain in earnest and we were climbing sheer rock faces. Not to mention, the daypack that Max had was just a regular backpack. Not exactly waterproof or trustworthy in terms of protecting our valuables from the elements. Thus after an hour of climbing, we came to the mutual decision to turn around. We also heard what we initially thought was thunder and did not want to take our chances of getting caught in a thunderstorm. Yeah, it wasn’t thunder we heard. At one point we heard it again and looked over our shoulders to see an avalanche on the hills across from us. It was far enough away as to not pose any danger to us, but it was amazing to watch. One of the most powerful things I have ever seen in my life. The snow just barreled down the hillside and unleashed powder everywhere. So cool. We decided that alone was worth turning around. That and getting to laze around for the rest of the afternoon and evening in the nice dry tent. Nothing like an afternoon nap after a day of hiking. Then it was more salami sandwiches for dinner in the tent (it still hadn’t stopped raining) and a nice relaxing evening.
Day 3 was our most ambitious and strenuous one of the trip. Not only were we supposed to complete 7 hours of hiking, but we had to do all of it with our packs on. We packed up our tent and gear once again and evaluated the state of our wet clothes. My hiking pants were almost dry (nice choice, Mom) as was my black jacket. Max’s pants, however, were still wet as was just about anything cotton we had brought with us. No matter. We both still had plenty of dry clothing packed, and Max was able to compile a makeshift outfit of cargo shorts and long underwear. It looked super classy. We blazed through the first leg of our hike, completing it in around two hours and settling in at Refugio Los Cuernos for lunch. Max and I both took advantage of the BATHROOMS and since it was sunny once again, we both took off some layers. Turns out carrying a giant backpack tends to make a person quite sweaty. Mmmm tasty. We also saw some Germans drinking coke purchased at the Refugio, and I decided I wanted to get some as a present to myself once we made it to our campsite. It also deserves to be noted that we saw barely any Chileans on the trail. We did, however, see plenty of Americans, Israelis, Germans, Polish people, Australians, and various other nationalities. It was a very multi-cultural experience. The end of lunchtime meant only one thing: it was time to embark on the longest leg of our trip. A supposedly four and a half hour, 11 km hike lay ahead of us, beginning with a 200 meter climb stretched out over 2.3 km. It was not fun, let me tell you. I have a really difficult time hill-climbing in general, and I always have. Even in cross country, my fellow competitors would kill me on the hills, but I would catch them on the flat parts. Sadly, hiking is sort of devoid of the flat parts. It was painful, very painful. However, we did manage to get some great views of the stunning blue lakes, and we saw another avalanche off in the distance. Plus, Max and I took breaks whenever one of us needed them and drank lots of water (we got most of our water from flowing streams. Yum.) By the end of the four-hour hike (we managed to cut a half an hour off of the projected time), I was feeling quite loopy. There were some random ducks sitting in our path that I found particularly hilarious. However, the feeling of loopiness subsided and gave way to exhaustion and frustration. I did not want to set up our tent that night, nor did I want to move at all. Max proved himself in those moments. Not only did he put up with my poutiness, he also dragged his exhausted self to the Refugio and picked me up two cans of coke. Pretty much the best hiking partner I could have ever asked for. I felt guilty though, so I used his absence to make our dinner of salami sandwiches (seeing a pattern here?). All in all, it was a tiring day, but we had made it to Refugio Las Torres, which meant that our journey was almost over.
On day 4, we had intended to get up early to do the seven-hour hike to Las Torres del Paine (the namesake of the park). We ended up hitting the snooze button more than a few times before we finally got up, and we decided to leave our tent up thinking we would leave our packs there and take it down when we arrived back at our camp before taking a shuttle back to the bus pick-up. The climb up to the Torres was treacherous to say the least. In the first leg alone we climbed 300 meters in altitude. However, I think the fact that this was the last day (and the fact that we didn’t have our packs) invigorated us, because despite the climb, we BLAZED through the first two segments of the trek like they were nothing, which put us way under our anticipated time. Because of this, we knew we had to go for it and make the 400-meter climb up to the Torres. For all that the first two segments were treacherous, the hike up to the Torres was excruciating. Max probably wanted to kill me because of all of the whining I was doing, but I honestly thought I might have a breakdown at one point. Even though the hike up to the lookout point was only supposed to take an hour, it felt like forever and the heat didn’t help at all. Still it was worth it when we reached the top and were able to get a magnificent view of the Torres. I have never seen anything like them in my entire life. We ate lunch up there and attempted to savor their glory. After that, the descent was a little scary and my legs got pretty tired, but we made it back to the campsite in one piece. In some ways, I feel like the trip through the Torres del Paine was a testament to how far I had come over the course of my time in Chile. After my accident, I wasn’t allowed to do any strenuous exercise at all. Let alone a four-day trek through Patagonia. It made me feel strong and accomplished. Anyway, the trip back to Puerto Natales was relatively uneventful, save us eating an obscene amount of salami and our shuttle being late (oh Chilean time…) When we returned to our hostel, we hurriedly checked in and returned our rental gear before having our celebratory meal at Baguales! Baguales was just as tasty as I had expected and the beer was rich, but the meal was definitely tinged with sadness. The Torres del Paine was Max and my final adventure in Chile, and I was not excited about the prospect of him going back to the states. But still we managed to enjoy the meal before CRASHING back in our hostel.
The last day was spent back in Punta Arenas. Not to much to note there other than that they have a giant cemetery, the Austral brewery requires advanced notice if you want to go on a tour (booooo), and that sushi and chicken teryaki with Torres del Paine special edition lager made a perfect (and cheap) last meal there. Max and I didn’t really know what to do with ourselves in Punta Arenas on such a cloudy day and while carrying our packs, so we ended up in the airport quite a few hours before our 1:35 am flight. But it was just as well. And with that our adventure came to an end.







