Wow, so it has been quite a while since I last updated. Plenty has happened in the last two weeks, and it’s definitely more than I can recall in one blog post. Between going to a bar with friends to watch La Catolica defeat O’Higgins, celebrating American Max’s birthday at a Jamaican reggae bar, and Chilean Max’s goodbye at a new friend’s house, sampling the deliciously cheap microbrews at a pub called HBH (a couple of times in one week), eating lunch with Chilean Max and his dad at their house, meeting up with Nona, Tess, Brita, and Katie to eat amazing pizza and desserts at a lovely Italian restaurant called Tiramisu, and otherwise getting into shenanigans all around town, it’s amazing how fast time flies. Not to mention, there is that whole school thing. School has basically become a giant question mark to me. I keep reading and doing my assignments as usual, but after four weeks of class I still feel as uncertain as ever about my academic future. Last week there was a national strike for two days where I didn’t go to a single class, since they were all canceled, and then on Friday the students took over the San Joaquin campus and attempted to prevent anyone from entering. Thankfully I was in Iquique for that, and by the time I got back it was all resolved. Still it serves as another reminder (besides the persistent lack of Chileans in my classes) that the fight for free education is still going on and the movement is as strong and angry as ever. At this point, I honestly just want a grade to have a grade. I feel like I am learning considerably more from living life than I do in any of my classes. They almost detract from my education. I know that may make my parents cringe, but let’s face it, it’s the truth.
This weekend I had the opportunity to go with my CIEE group on a trip to Iquique, which is a town in the northern desert region of the country. The trip was paid for as part of the program fee, so all of the gringos were there (aka a group of about 30 of us). We flew out of the Santiago airport on Thursday afternoon, after being transported from the metro stop across from my house (win!), and two and a half hours later we arrived safely in Iquique. Once we got there, we selected our roommates (I shared a room with Katie and Nona who had already proven to be excellent from our trip to La Serena), checked into our hotel, and headed off to dinner. Dinner was at a restaurant that served Aymara cuisine. The Aymaras are an indigenous group native to Northern Chile as well as Peru and Bolivia. I already knew a little bit about them from a phonetics project I did on Bolivia, but I learned a whole lot more about their culture during the course of the trip. The main course of the night was fish, which I gobbled up despite the fact that it isn’t usually my favorite food. While there was talk of going out after dinner, we ended up staying in and basically having a party in the hotel room. Crazy gringo shenanigans complete with lots of laughs and ridiculous photos ensued.
The next morning we awoke bright and early to head to a hospital after breakfast. Turns out the reason we were going to a hospital as part of our tour was to learn about a program started by midwives in Iquique that combines modern medicine with traditional Aymara rituals to help make giving birth both safe and comfortable for women in the surrounding communities. The head midwife gave a presentation on how the program was started and what it entails. For example, Aymara women prefer to give birth sitting rather than lying down, so they have a special birthing stool they use in the hospital to facilitate this. They also like to be incredibly warm, so the rooms have lots of blankets and a very strong heater. Interesting. Anyway, the presentation included a few laughs when a couple people in our group (including our newest edition from Wisconsin, Ian) had to demonstrate. Pictures to follow. After the birthing demonstration we wasted no time heading to a huge cemetery that is home to a variety of famous soldiers from the War of the Pacific between Chile and Peru, and then to a museum in an old house across town. It was all relatively interesting, but to be completely honest, it’s difficult to pay attention when someone rambles at you in a different language for two hours. I mostly looked around and vowed to look up the key names on Wikipedia when I could concentrate better. After lunch we took a boat tour of the ocean where we saw a few historic battle sights, and more importantly (in my opinion) some adorable harbor seals basking on buoys. Precious. I really liked just being on the Ocean and if I could have designed the trip, I would have spent a heck of a lot more time there than trying to jam a million different cultural activities into three days. Sigh. After we got back to land we went to an area school to help paint a fence and a railing in their courtyard. Except we never finished painting but whatever. I guess we got them off to a good start? Anyway, the students there also performed a traditional indigenous dance for us, and then tried to teach us a few moves. They were awesome, us gringos notsomuch. Still it was one of the more entertaining parts of the day, and watching other gringas dance with the middle school Chilean boys was hilarious. However, the painting and dancing had put us behind schedule, so we began our talk with an expert on Aymara culture about an hour later than anticipated. This meant that by the time she started speaking, we were supposed to be headed to dinner. Yeah… not good. I wish they had done a better job planning the activities/ keeping us on schedule, because I could hardly focus on what she was staying since I was so famished. I would have really liked to hear more from her at a different time though. Still I managed to retain a couple of details before we were finally released for dinner at 10 pm. Yeah, that’s right, parents. We ate dinner after you probably went to bed. Ugh.
The next day was another long day of touring around the area. We started by visiting a couple of different sodium nitrate mines aka basically wandering around looking at some old buildings in the desert. Then we headed out into the middle of nowhere to see some petroglyphs (thanks for giving me the English term, Nona) in the midst of the salt flats. While the carvings were pretty cool, they almost seemed fake since you would imagine that something so old, gigantic, and vast would have been long destroyed by the sand and the wind. Still it was fun to walk around and look at them as well as venture into the expanse of nothingness that is the salt flats. You really can’t hear anything except the salt crackling in the sun. Plus, we wandered over to this super cool oasis where one of the guys in my group briefly meditated. I mostly just took in the surroundings. After the salt flats, we headed out for lunch where we annihilated the food since once again we were behind schedule and starving. This restaurant also offered amazing fresh mango-lemonade. Yum. After lunch we had the option of walking around and looking at the markets or swimming around in the hot springs. I chose the hot springs. SO WORTH IT. Ugh, it was so nice and refreshing (they were more tepid than hot) on a sunny desert day. I wish we could have stayed there for hours and hours, but once again we were rushed along after only a half an hour in the springs to go to a nearby fruit orchard. Still I had an amazing time in the springs and would definitely go back. Later that day we drank delicious juice from the orchard and stopped in a town having a traditional Chilean religious festival. However, we were all beat by 8 pm and very happy to head back to the hotel to kick back and relax. That night a lot of people hit the bars in town, but chilling in the hotel in sweatpants and talking with American Max was totally fine with me. Probably better actually since I woke up at 10:30 feeling ready to run around town during our free (!!!!) morning. It was amazing. I ran all the way down the boardwalk and even dipped my hand in the ocean. Nothing beats a clear view of the Pacific five minutes from where you are staying. Plus I was able to watch the start of some sort of a race, which was pretty cool. I wish I had known about it before. I would have totally signed up. The run was probably one of my favorite parts of the entire trip. Definitely heading back to the ocean a couple times before I go back to the United States since I think my lack of proximity to it at home draws me to it when I am here. In any event, I finally ran back to the hotel, showered, and checked out before lunch. Lunch was AMAZING. We went to a gorgeous Spanish restaurant that served us fresh seafood alfredo. Yum. Then we basically took in a bunch of different sights for the rest of the afternoon and evening (our flight was delayed two hours) before flying out of Iquique at 8 pm. On the whole, it was a pretty good trip, but I appreciate being back in Santiago. However, on cool days like today, I am definitely missing the desert heat.
Since I only have one class on Monday, I slept in late this morning before heading to class at 1:15. Class went on as planned (thank God, the incapacitating strike from last week did not continue into this week), and I finally met with my tandem partner this afternoon! After three weeks of mismatched schedules, I got to sit down and chat with him. His name is Pancho, he studies engineering (don’t all of my friends here?), and he’s in his last year of school before he starts his masters. We started talking in Spanish but then switched to English half way through to give us both a chance to practice. He seems nice, so I think meeting with him on a weekly basis should be good.
Other than that, I am going to visit Jo in Vina this weekend, which makes me happier than words can describe! I can’t wait to get to know the town and meet her friends and above all, CATCH UP WITH HER. So happy. Plus, I have exploring and jersey buying with Max on Thursday and lunch with Nona, Tess, Katie, and Brita on Friday to look forward to on Friday afternoon. And maybe even a little soccer playing on Friday evening? We’ll have to see. I’m also trying to plan a vacation to Copiapo (another desert city) because there is an amazing volcano nearby as well as the most beautiful beach in the country. I’ll post pictures, so you can all ooo and ahhh over what I will (hopefully) be seeing. I also found out that Chilean Max had lunch with Mario in Madison today, and that made me super happy. I’m glad that he is doing well and that my friends are taking care of him. Anyway, that’s all for now. I’ll post pictures soon.

